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Paradise found.... Heaven
on Earth
Do you remember the first time you
experienced your first taste of Tahiti? Was it reading “Bali
Hai”? Watching “Mutiny on the Bounty”?
I remember my first sight like it was yesterday. Standing
in the Chicago Art Institute, holding fast to my mother’s
hand after a long, cold snowy walk from the train station.
Gazing in absolute fascination at beautiful brown skinned
ladies with long dark hair and liquid eyes with their arms
filled with flowers. I still can feel the warmth that the
picture embraced me with. Paul Gauguin, introduced me to
Tahiti through his eyes and his colors. Beautiful, warm
and serene; yes. But even Gauguin couldn’t paint the
complete picture of this mystical place.
The
118 islands of French Polynesia were born from volcanoes
about 20 million years ago. The land area of these 118 islands
and atolls only adds up to about 1,365 square miles. However,
they are sprinkled, like gems, over almost 2 MILLION square
miles of ocean in the eastern South Pacific! The islands
in the Society, Marquesas, Austral and Gambier Island groups
remained high islands, while the islands of the Tuamotu
Islands group became atolls. Atolls are formed as volcanoes
die and become extinct.
As a volcano becomes extinct, the
magma is no longer expelled through the vent. The lava on
top collapses, forming a hug caldera basin, which eventually
erodes and forms valleys. It is now an island which slowly
sinks into the ocean. As is sinks, coral begins to grow
on the underwater sides of the island. Over thousands of
years, the corals polps build on top of each other, eventually
forming barriers hundreds of feet deep that surround the
island shore, forming a fringing reef. The old volcanic
core still remains underneath the atoll, but all you see
is the coral ring, which encircles the lagoon.
The coral rim of the atoll indicates
how big the island once was. A series of small coral islets,
interspersed with submerged coral reefs, are rarely more
than a quarter mile wide and only a few feet above the ocean’s
surface. The lagoons inside these coral strips vary from
the size of a pond to almost as large as an inland sea.
Polynesian origins are believed
to be in the area of eastern Indonesia or the Phillipines
about 4,000 years ago. The early Polynesians were master
navigators and their migrations took them through Melanesia
to the eastern edge of Polynesia, settling there between
1000 BC and 1000 AD.
The very remoteness of the islands
of Polynesia kept the people insulated from the rest of
the world until Magellan first sighted the Pukapuka Atoll
in the Tuamotus in 1521. The Spanish explorer Mendana discovered
the Marquesas Islands in 1595. However, true contact between
the Polynesians and European explorers did not begin until
the discovery of Tahiti by the Englishman Wallis in 1767.
Captain
William Bligh and the mutinous crew aboard the H.M.S. Bounty
provided a colorful chapter in Tahiti’s history, following
their arrival at Point Venus in 1788. The Mutiny on the
Bounty saga is well known, as told by co-authors Hall and
Nordhoff, two Americans who moved to Tahiti after fighting
in World War I. Several Bounty movies have been made, with
famous actors such as Errol Flynn, Clark Gable, Marlon Brando,
Mel Gibson and Anthony Hopkins all taking turns at being
the evil Captain Bligh.
The whole episode, of course, centered
around the humble breadfruit tree. Bligh decided that the
breadfruit, which was the staple diet of the strong, healthy
Tahitians, would be a cheap and nourishing means of feeding
the slaves used on plantations in the West Indies…and
his wife’s uncle just happened to own several large
plantation in Jamaica.
The mutiny was the result of the
harsh punishments meted out for his men and his insults
to his officers. As you might remember, in the final analysis,
Captain Bligh was cleared of any guilt for the mutiny and
proceeded to sail back to Tahiti. He eventually collected
over 2,000 breadfruit trees and took them back to the West
Indies. The breadfruit seedlings were planted in St. Vincent
and in Port Royal, Jamaica. When the trees grew and began
to bear fruit, the Negro slaves refused to eat the starchy
breadfruit because they didn’t like the taste.
Paul Gauguin immortalized the beauty
of the islands and the women with his paintings. Born in
Paris on June 7, 1848, he grew up in a liberal middle-class
family. After a stint in the French merchant marine, he
became a successful Parisian stockbroker, with a wife and
five children. In 1874 he met the artist Camille Pissarro
and viewed the first impressionist exhibit, after which
he became a collector and amateur painter.
By 1883 he had given up his secure
existence to devote himself to painting, forcing his wife
and children to return to her family in Denmark, as he sank
deep into debt. In 1891, Gauguin sailed for the South Seas
to escape European civilization and “everything that
is artificial and conventional”. He lived in Tahiti
until 1901 when he moved to the Marquesas Islands in search
of a primitive culture and savage beauty, and died there
in 1903. Buried in Calvary Cemetery on a hill behind Atuona
village, a gnarled old frangipani tree stands guard over
his grave, and a statue of Oviri, “the savage”
stands at the head of the tombstone.
The
history you can read, but the beauty must be seen and smelled
and felt to fully understand and appreciate the siren call
that the islands sing. With 118 islands to embrace, you
will find that you must either return many times or move
there! Since time is always too short when you are on a
charter holiday, and space is also limited for writing an
article, rather than a book, we will focus on only a few
of the myriad of places that you will eventually want to
experience.
The first place you will see will
surely be Tahiti, as Papeete is not only the capital of
French Polynesia, it also happens to be where the airport
is located. Papeete (Pah-pay-eh-tey) is located on Tahiti’s
north coast, facing the island of Moorea across the Sea
of Moons.
Time permitting, and if the inclination
is there, a quick land excursion via a four-wheel drive
vehicle will soon have you off the beaten path and up into
the mountains and valleys of Tahiti. In a short time you
will be going through tropical forests of giant ferns, centuries
old Tahitian mape chestnut trees, wild mango and guava trees,
and more waterfalls than you can count. One of the most
magnificent of these is the Three Cascades of Fa’arumai
in Tiarei.
The Vaimahuta waterfall is easily
reached in about five minutes by walking across the bridge
over the Vaipuu river and following the well defined path
under a dense canopy formed by mape and hutu trees. Countless
waterfalls cascade in misty plumes and broken curtains down
the mountainside, finally tumbling into a crisp, refreshing
pool. This is a perfect place for a quick swim to cool off,
but make sure you are well armed with mosquito repellent!
The Tuamotu Islands is your destination
of choice for your adventure this time. Comprised of 77
atolls and one upraised island, the Tuamotu Archipelago
are mere specks of land out in the heart of the trade winds,
lost in the vastness of the deep blue of the Pacific. It
is as if a careless giant has strewn gemstones across the
sea.
Covering 10 latitudes with a total
length of 930 miles and a width of 310 miles, these are
some of the most remote islands in the world. And are yours
to explore and enjoy from the deck of your charter yacht.
This vast collection of coral islets
conjures up castaway dreams on a tropical island, tiny green
oases floating in the desert of the sea, with names as exotic
as the trade winds and coconut trees. Windswept beaches
with the sounds of the surf and sea birds for company. Fragrant
miki miki shrubs blend perfumes with the aromas of the salt
spray. The lagoons shimmer with a brilliance of light and
color unsurpassed, and a submerged landscape of untouched
magic and awesome beauty awaits beneath the sun-gilded waters
tinged with turquoise.
The largest atoll of the Tuamotu
Archipelago is Rangiroa, also called Rairoa, means “long
sky” in the Paumotu dialect, the language of the Polynesian
inhabitants. The coral ring encircling the pear-shaped atoll
contains more than 240 motu islets, separated by at least
100 very shallow hoa channels and three passes, two of which
are deep and wide enough for ships to enter the lagoon.
A vast inland sea measuring approximately 47 miles long
and 16 miles wide is surround by Rangiroa.
Cultivation pits and marae temples
of coral stone are all that remains today of settlements
that existed on Rangiroa during the 14th and 15th centuries.
To protect themselves from the aggressive “Parata”
warriors from the atoll of Anaa, the Rangiroa inhabitants
took refuge on the soughwest side of the atoll, close to
the Motu Taeo’o, known as the Blue Lagoon. This village
was destroyed by a natural disaster, probably a tsunami,
in 1560 and the entire population disappeared.
Today
the Blue Lagoon remains as one of the most beautiful places
in the world. This lagoon within a lagoon is formed by a
natural pool of aquamarine water on the edge of the reef.
Your captain will bring you in as close as possible with
the launch, but because of the many coral heads, you will
need to jump off into the water and wade the rest of the
way up to the beach…through a posse of reef sharks.
Not to worry, you will soon get
desensitized to their presence and will believing your captain
when he tells you that they are just like puppy dogs…lots
of puppy dogs! Heaven above water, there is something about
the beauty of the water that makes you just have to jump
in. More than 400 varieties of rainbow-hued fish glint like
ornaments in the iridescent waters, flashing among the jewel-like
colors of the hard and soft corals, and the softly waving
sea fans.
For those who desire the rush of
a more active dive, “shooting the pass” of Tiputa
is a favorite excursion, where hundreds of fish, moray eels
and shark swim beside and below you, swept along by the
strong currents. If you are really lucky, you might catch
a glimpse of the rare black and white dolphins that live
around the coast of Rangiora. But then again, you are floating
in the limpid waters of the most beautiful place in the
world, and isn’t that lucky enough?
Time now to say parahi ia (good-bye)
and relive the dream until the next time you are able to
visit this heaven on earth.
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