Ah,
New England. The very thought of it evokes a kaleidoscope
of images, memories and smells. An area so steeped in history
that it comes alive and banishes the remembered labor of
childhood history classes. But is was probably in those
same childhood classes that you first heard of, and studied
New England. The textbook images of white church spires
piercing a clear blue sky, forests ablaze with autumn colors,
bright red lobsters, waiting to be feasted on. Have you
experienced New England aboard a crewed yacht charter yet?
Have you smelled the salty sea air, the
green of woods, the wild roses growing along the cliff?
If you haven't, it is time you did, and if you have, now
is the time to go back again and create more wonderful memories.
Middle New England, so close, but so
exotic. Newport north to Boston, with stops at the close
islands and a chance to whale watch, this is our setting,
ripe for exploring. We begin the adventure in Newport, which
is exciting and beautiful in any season. Sleepy and snow
shrouded in winter, she blooms with bustling life during
the summer. You will want to schedule a full day in Newport,
and then probably wish you had been able to linger longer.
There are several "must do"
things in Newport, and highest ranking on the list is visiting
the famed Cottages. Mansions to most of us, these were merely
summer cottages for the rich and famous following the Civil
War. The Preservation Society of Newport maintains eight
of the perhaps dozen that remain.
Walking across perfectly manicured lawns,
standing on the wide verandas looking out at the ocean or
marveling at the grandeur of the interior one of these mansions,
stop and close your eyes. Listen very carefully. Can you
hear the clink of champagne glasses, the soft tones of the
chamber orchestra? Can you imagine living in this manner?
Living the life you read about in
The
Great Gatsby? Days gone by, but lucky us, we can still enjoy
the beauty and pretend we were there, if only for a moment.
One of the best way to appreciate the sheer beauty of the
mansions and their view of the ocean is by walking the Cliff
Walk, a three-and-one-half-mile coastal path that hugs the
coastline. Though it begins near Newport Beach (just off
Memorial Boulevard) and ends on a side street off Bellevue
Avenue, you can pick it up at several places along the walk,
including Forty Steps, located at the end of Narragansett
Ave. Beautiful at any time, early mornings are particularly
magical, especially when the wild roses are in bloom.
If you have time and energy, other places
to visit include the International Tennis Hall of Fame,
the Museum of Yachting, the many galleries and "Antique
Alley", which is a cluster of antique shops grouped
on Spring and Thames Street. Depending on when you are there,
the Chowder Festival and Jazz Fest are great fun.
Leaving Newport behind, it is Island
Fever Time, New England style. Block Island, Martha's Vineyard
and Nantucket, conveniently nearby, but miles away from
the frantic pace of everyday living. Block Island is only
about 12 miles off the coast of Rhode Island, with Martha's
Vineyard and Nantucket adjacent to Cape Cod. Rarely crowded,
even in the middle of summer, Block Island is a colorful
palette of multicolored clay cliffs, shifting sand dunes,
crashing waves, and fields of honeysuckle. One quarter of
the island is designated as preservation land where rare
birds and habitats can be observed.
The
Greenway is a network of trails that wind through park,
conservancy and private land; it starts mid-island and ends
on the south shore. However, most people coming to Block
Island are eager to visit the beaches. The most popular
is Crescent Beach, which is actually three separate beaches.
The first is Benson Beach, complete with chair and umbrella
rentals, showers and a snack bar. Following the dune paths,
you will arrive at Scotch Beach.
Further on is Mansion Beach, located
beneath the cliffs and the ruins of a former ocean-side
mansion. Mohegan Bluffs are located on the island's south
shore and are multi-colored clay cliffs that tower 200 feet
above the ocean. They stretch for several miles along the
shore, offering spectacular ocean views and steep paths
leading to the beaches that rim the coastline below.
Bartholomew Gosnold brought a group of
colonists in 1602 to Martha's Vineyard. These were to be
the first residents of the triangular-shaped island, named
for the wild grapes Gosnold found growing everywhere. The
colonists were gone after 3 weeks,but soon replaced by many
more. The Vineyard is 20 miles long, and 10 miles wide,
large enough to have a myriad of fascinating places to visit,
small enough to be able to do so on a bike. The island is
one of rolling moors, salt marshes, secluded coves and colored
cliffs, perfect for those who enjoy the outdoors.
For the history and architecture lovers,
Edgartown is a treasure trove, waiting to be explored. Start
at the Martha's Vineyard Historical Society and Vineyard
Museum, which includes the Thomas Cooke House and Captain
Pease House. Though not part of this complex, the Vincent
House Museum gives you a glimpse of life as it was, 300
years ago.
The Martha's Vineyard Preservation Trust
maintains this structure, built in 1672, which is the oldest
house on the Island. Time for some fresh air? Hop back on
your bike and take experience Martha's Vineyard State Forest,
in the center of the island, with its dense stands of pines,
or the Manuae F. Correllus State Park, which has 4,400 acres
of hiking paths and bike trails. Still not tired? The Oak
Bluffs to Edgartown trail is a 12-mile round-trip that runs
along the waterfront. If you have any energy left after
your day of history and riding, pick up a copy of the Vineyard
Gazette, the newspaper that has served Martha's Vineyard
for over 150 years!
Of the great American Novels, one of
the best loved and most often quoted is Herman Melville's
Moby Dick. Melville said of the Nantucketers: "these
sea hermits, issuing from their ant-hill in the sea, overran
and conquered the watery world like so many Alexanders,
parceling out among them the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian
oceans". For almost 100 years, Nantucket was among
the world's greatest whaling ports.
Today
the whaling is gone, but the island remains one of the most
charming and picturesque places in New England. To visit
the Nantucket of days gone by, make sure you visit the Whaling
Museum, which is housed in what once was a factory for refining
whale oil. There are exhibits of all of the tools of the
whaling trade, plus a whaleboat, an excellent collection
of scrimshaw and a full-sized whale skeleton.
The local Historical Society has pamphlets
giving a self-guided walking tour of Nantucket Town, the
main port. During its heyday, Nantucket Town was home to
over 10,000 residents. The cobblestone streets, lined with
large stately trees surrounding elegant houses, give testimony
to the success of the sea captains, merchants and ship owners.
One of the most well-preserved is the
Hadwen House, which contains many of the original furnishing.
The oldest remaining house was built in 1686 and is a fine
example of the saltbox style dwelling so popular in the
Colonial 17th century. One of the best ways to see the natural
side of Nantucket is by bike. There are several well marked
bike paths on the island, offering you views of cranberry
bogs, wetlands, moors and ponds. Be warned, several of these
paths are 12 to 16 miles long, so you will want to be prepared.
One of the best places to relax and rejuvenate
in Nantucket Town is The Brotherhood of Thieves. With its
low, oak-beamed ceilings, wood paneling and lots of candles,
you feel like you have been transported back in time and
quite possibly over to England! What a lovely way to end
a very pleasant day.
Hyannis bills itself as Cape Cod's "hub",
and is indeed packed with restaurants, shops, clubs, hotels…and
people! A popular base for visits up and down the Cape,
Hyannis is the Cape's commercial center. Summer season is
brimming with things to do, including the Hyannis Harbor
Festival in June, the Cape Cod Symphony Orchestra, and the
Boston Pops with Pops-by-the-Sea in August. Intense national
attention was focused on Hyannis in the early 1960's, when
John F. Kennedy was president. The Kennedy family still
owns a large estate, the Kennedy Compound. The John F. Kennedy
Hyannis Museum documents JFK's life and his time in Hyannis.
November 21, 1620, the Mayflower Pilgrims
landed at what is now Provincetown after 67 days at sea.
They stayed but a month, as the soil was thin and fresh
water was scarce before sailing on to Plymouth, across Cape
Cod Bay. During that month, they wrote and signed the Mayflower
Compact, a charter establishing a government based on the
will of the majority. This document, as we all learned in
history class, would set the stage for the writing of the
Constitution and the American Revolution. Known to those
who love her as "P-town", Provincetown brims with
life and merriment.
There is always something to do, rain
or shine, but perhaps the best part of P-town is watching
everyone else. Gay life is a given, but there are plenty
of other colorful individuals that call it home, and then,
of course, you can always watch the antics of the tourists.
A Mecca for artists, the Provincetown Art Association and
Museum has four galleries of changing exhibits by Outer
Cape Artists. There are several other museums to poke about
in, but for the sheer fun of it, visit the Marine Specialists.
Crammed with everything from cheap souvenirs to military
surplus items from the USSR, the shop will put you into
sensory overload!
Just
outside Provincetown is the Cape Cod National Seashore,
established in 1961. Encompassing 43,500 acres, the park
runs from Provincetowon down to Orleans, including within
its borders: ocean beaches, wind-swept dunes, salt pond
marshes and spectacular cliffs, as well as pitch pine and
scrub-oak forests.
A succession of glacial deposits and
wind and wave erosion formed Cape Cod's present hook shape.
Studies indicate that the sea and wind action are eroding
the Cape at an alarming rate, and that the land itself might
be sinking into the sea. Take some time to sit on the beach
and simply watch the waves roll in, reflecting on the what
has happened to this locality to create it, and what continues
to shape it, and consider how precious the area is.
The entire province is special, but one
of the most spectacular treats of the region is to go whale
watching. Assuming you will end your charter adventure in
Boston, your captain has saved the best part of the trip
until last by giving you the chance to experience the thrill
of seeing whales on your final day at sea. The Stellwagen
Bank is located about twenty-five miles of the Massachusetts
coast and is one of the richest marine environments in the
United States.
The 640-square-mile area is the perfect
physical, oceanographic and meteorological blend of circumstances
that combine to produce an enormous quantity of plankton
that lures pelagic fish, sea birds, turtles and marine mammals.
Stellwagen Bank is both the principal feeding ground and
nursery for both large and small whale species, including
fin, minke, northern right, pilot and orca. Perhaps the
most exciting whale species to populate the Bank is the
humpback whale, with their impressive displays of flukes
and flippers.
The entrance to Boston Harbor is guarded
by an archipelago consisting of 30 islands. As your captain
eases your charter yacht past them and into her berth in
Boston, you just might find yourself thinking that maybe
next time you should start your charter in Boston, explore
some of those islands, then head on up the coast to Maine.
Yes, you haven't even finished this adventure, and already
you are planning your next charter; which really is the
what a holiday is about, isn't it?
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