| Exumas, Bahamas
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Webster's New World Dictionary defines paradise as "any
place of great beauty and perfection." No doubt Mr.
Webster would have included the Exumas in his description
of paradise had he ever sailed the crystal-clear waters
surrounding this island chain. Just imagine 100 or so square
miles of water ranging in color from light green to deep
blue-this "many-shaded sea" is home to the 365
cays and islands that form the paradise known as Exuma.
The
Exumas are one of many island chains that make up the Bahamas
and are a perfect desination for your crewed yacht charter.
They're part of a group of islands that includes Bimini,
Eleuthera and the Abacos-a
group traditionally known as the Bahamas "Out Islands."
Though the Out Islands have long been popular with the boating
crowd, they aren't as recognized as the Bahamas' busy tourist
hub of Nassau/Paradise Island.
Nassau/Paradise Island is the cultural,
social, political and economic center of the Bahamas-in
other words, it's where the action is! Nearly half of the
nation's residents live here, and it's the most popular
tourist spot in the islands. Just 185 miles southeast of
Miami, it's often referred to as the "gateway to the
Bahamas," and is a common starting point for the many
brave souls seeking an Out Island adventure.
The Nassau/Paradise Island area is actually
two separate islands connected by two bridges. The historic
city of Nassau, on New Providence Island, is the capital
of the Bahamas. Despite a growing intrusion of the modern
world, the city has retained its laid-back tropical atmosphere
and still serves up a good dose of British colonial charm.
Directly across the bridge from Nassau
is Paradise Island-home to several world-class resorts and
casinos, and some of the most popular beaches in the Bahamas.
The centerpiece of Paradise Island is the Atlantis Resort
and Casino. This mega-resort has pools, beaches, restaurants,
marine habitats, water slides and a sheltered marina where
some of the most luxurious yachts in the world are anchored.
But if your sites have been set on the
less traveled waters of the Out Islands, be prepared to
take a step back in time to a place that is considered by
many to be the "real" Bahamas-the heart and soul
of this island nation. These remote, beautiful and mysterious
islands seem worlds away from the bustle of the Bahamas'
capital.
The most remote of the Out Islands is
undoubtedly the Exumas. Though the 365 cays and islands
of the Exuma chain begin just 35 miles southeast of Nassau-lying
smack in the middle of the Bahamas chain-they've managed
to remain mostly undisturbed. Not as developed as the Abacos
and Eleuthera, these islands are widely revered for their
unspoiled beauty. From the gin-clear waters to the secluded
beaches, coral gardens and natural harbors, the Exuma islands
take paradise to a new level!
Lacking the fanfare found on the other
island chains, the nightlife, shopping and dining are typically
informal and low-key. "Unspoiled" seems to be
the buzzword for the Exumas-not only when describing the
natural environment, but when referring to the islanders
as well. The people of Exuma are warm, open and proud of
their islands. Most families have lived in the cays for
generations and can trace their roots back more than 200
years. In fact, many of the islands' residents are direct
descendents of plantation slaves from the late 1700s.
But
it's not the friendly islanders that draw adventurous souls
here again and again. The main attraction is without a doubt
the natural beauty that can be found above and below the
waters surrounding these islands. The Exumas' cruising grounds
are considered to be the most beautiful in the Western Hemisphere-if
not the world. The tidal ebb and flow between the shallow
Great Bahama Bank and the deep cobalt blue of the Exuma
Sound creates dramatic color contrasts between every island.
Beneath the water, the Exumas are teeming
with undersea life. Much of the island chain is encompassed
by the Exuma National Land and Sea Park. This 22-mile-long
reserve is one of the major natural wonders and sightseeing
destinations of the Bahamas, with an abundance of marine
life, coral reefs, blue holes and shipwrecks. Inland, the
park is home to several species of rare birds as well as
the rare and protected Bahamian iguana.
It's safe to say that a visit to any
of the Exuma cays won't be disappointing-they all have the
requisite white sandy beaches, private anchorages and great
snorkeling and diving spots. But some of these destinations
have unique offerings worth mentioning. Traveling down the
Exuma chain, visitors can count on a few fun encounters...
Encounter is the operative word when
describing a visit to Allan's Cay. Arriving beachside here
may leave you feeling like you've stepped into a scene from
Jurassic Park. As many as 30 rare Bahamian iguanas are usually
waiting to greet visitors-and these sociable guys are expecting
a treat!
The charm of nearby Norman's Cay comes
from its colorful (to put it nicely) past. Norman's gained
notoriety in the late '70s when it was the base for a very
profitable drug smuggling operation. Today, the wreckage
of a DC3 lies in the harbor, serving as a reminder of those
less tranquil days. Local legend has it that the plane's
pilot had been sampling his cargo when he tried to land
on a moonbeam instead of the airstrip! The downed plane
now provides a fun snorkeling adventure.
Heading south you'll find Warderick Wells,
headquarters of the Exuma National Land and Sea Park and
a favorite gathering place for cruisers. Miles of nature
trails leading to secluded beaches is the highlight here.
And a personal welcome from park warden Ray Darville is
always a treat for visitors.
Halfway down the Exuma chain, tiny Sampson
Cay and nearby Staniel Cay are the main attractions. Sampson
Cay is one of the safest anchorages in the Exumas and is
considered a natural "hurricane hole." Staniel
Cay, home of the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, is a popular stopover
for the yachting crowd.
Just off Staniel Cay is Thunder Ball
Grotto, one of the most beautiful diving and snorkeling
spots in the Bahamas. Fans of 007 flicks will recognize
this famous grotto from Thunderball and Never Say Never
Again. Scenes from these Bond movies were filmed here.
Snorkeling the cave has been described
as swimming in a giant tropical fish bowl with sunlight
shining through. The southern end of the Exuma chain is
anchored by Great and Little Exuma, where most of the 3,600
Exuma residents live. Great Exuma is the single largest
landmass of the island chain, and is also home to the capital
city. George Town is a tranquil seaport village that opens
onto Elizabeth Harbor, a 15-mile-long anchorage that was
once a favorite rendezvous point for pirates.
This
beautiful harbor has prompted some Exumians to speculate
that perhaps Columbus' first landfall in the New World was
in the Exumas-not San Salvador, as widely believed-because
Columbus wrote enthusiastically in his journal about a harbor
that could hold "all the ships in Christendom."
Today, the anchorage draws a yachting crowd from all over
the world.
In April, Elizabeth Harbor plays host
to the annual Family Island Regatta (sometimes referred
to as the Out Island Regatta). In this classic race, workboats
from all over the islands compete for the championship of
the Bahamas. Beginning a few days before the race, visitors
mob the island, liquor flows freely, and the village launches
into a weeklong festival of food, music, dancing and serious
fun.
The harbor is protected by nearby Stocking
Island. Known for its white-sand beaches and the Mysterious
Cave, which is accessible only to divers, Stocking Island
faces the town less than a mile across the bay.
Connected to Great Exuma by a 200-yard-long
bridge is Little Exuma and its beautiful Tropic of Cancer
Beach. The imaginary line that divides the tropic and temperate
zones is said to run right along this beach. The waters
are so crystal clear that you can often see the colorful
tropical fish more than 60 feet down.
And in nearby Pretty Molly Bay, just
try to catch a glimpse of the beautiful but elusive mermaid
who is said to live here. Pretty Molly was a slave who committed
suicide by walking into the water one night-the natives
claim that her ghost can still be seen walking the beach
at night.
Most Out Island adventures end where
they begin-back in the Bahamas' capital. Imagine spending
your last day in the islands lounging by the pool, reflecting
on the incredible discoveries you made in the beautiful
and remote Exuma Cays, warming your thoughts with yet another
fruity rum drink hand-delivered to you poolside-mmm…sounds
like paradise to me!
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